Five designers to watch at New York Fashion Week SS27
New York Fashion Week returns from September 10 to 15, bringing together established names, independent labels and a new generation of designers across the city. Beyond the major houses on the calendar, some of the most interesting projects are coming from brands working across fashion, art, material experimentation and contemporary culture. For the Spring/Summer 2027 season, Visual Atelier 8 selects five names to follow, each developing a distinct approach to clothing through craftsmanship, identity, construction and new ways of thinking about fashion.
CAROLINE ZIMBALIST — SEPTEMBER 14
New York artist and designer Caroline Zimbalist works at the intersection of fashion, art and material research. After studying fashion at Parsons and spending time at Central Saint Martins, she developed a practice centred on biodegradable bioplastics made from natural materials. These are poured, dyed and formed by hand into clothing, jewellery and functional objects, making each piece inherently different. Her work is particularly interesting for the way material becomes both the visual language and the starting point of the design process, moving between wearable pieces, collectible objects and installation.
SHAO — SEPTEMBER 13
SHAO was founded by Taiwanese-born, New York-based designer Shao Yang, whose practice is grounded in precision tailoring and garment construction. The label approaches clothing through structure, proportion and unexpected material combinations, with a visual language that often connects technical discipline with cultural references. Taiwanese heritage sits alongside the energy of New York, while denim, leather and sharply constructed silhouettes frequently appear across the brand’s work. This balance between precise construction and contemporary styling has become central to SHAO’s identity.
PRIVATE POLICY — SEPTEMBER 14
Founded in New York, Private Policy has built its identity around fashion as a way to address contemporary culture and social questions. The independent label is known for combining an experimental approach to everyday clothing with themes connected to identity, society and technology. Its collections often move between streetwear, tailoring and more unconventional silhouettes, giving the brand a recognisable position within New York’s independent fashion scene. Over the years, Private Policy has also presented internationally while maintaining a strong connection to its New York origins.
PUBLIC SERV-CE — SEPTEMBER 13
Founded by creative director Raphael Young, PUBLIC SERV-CE works between fashion, architecture, music and contemporary culture. The label develops what it calls “Street Tailorism,” combining precise construction with a more informal approach to dressing. Architecture plays an important role in its design language, particularly in the way structure and proportion are translated into garments. PUBLIC SERV-CE also extends its practice beyond clothing through sound, movement and live presentation, giving the brand a broader cultural dimension.
SEBASTIEN AMI — SEPTEMBER 11
Founded in 2020 by Sebastien Amisial and Marianne Amisial, Sebastien Ami reconsiders traditional workwear through a more refined contemporary menswear language. The brand draws from Americana and Haitian artisan traditions while focusing on durable construction, craftsmanship and functional clothing for the modern creative worker. Familiar utilitarian pieces are developed through carefully selected materials and considered detailing, giving practical garments a more elevated character without losing their original purpose.
