ISSEY MIYAKE explores material transformation with ‘The Paper Log: Shell and Core’
ISSEY MIYAKE presents ‘The Paper Log: Shell and Core’ at its Milan flagship, a special exhibition developed by Satoshi Kondo of MIYAKE DESIGN STUDIO in collaboration with Ensamble Studio. The project introduces an experimental installation and furniture research initiative built around “The Paper Log,” a cylindrical byproduct of the brand’s pleating process. Positioned between installation and material study, the exhibition frames paper not as waste, but as a structural and narrative medium shaped through iterative design and technical refinement.
The Paper Log originates from the pleating production line, where wafer-thin sheets of paper protect fabric during processing. These sheets are compressed into dense rolls measuring approximately 80 centimeters in height and 40 centimeters in diameter. Their layered structure recalls the rings of a tree trunk, embedding a temporal dimension into the material. Satoshi Kondo identified the latent architectural potential of these rolls during a factory visit, initiating a transformation process that began with simple cross-cut stools. This initial gesture later informed seating elements presented during the ISSEY MIYAKE Spring Summer 2025 show in Paris, establishing the Paper Log as both object and system.
As development progressed, the Paper Log evolved into a versatile material capable of multiple treatments. Its absorbent composition allows it to be modified through wax infusion, adhesive coatings, and surface hardening, altering both texture and structural performance. Processes such as carving, slicing, peeling, and unrolling expand its application across furniture and spatial installations. This adaptability situates the project within broader discussions of circular design and temporary architecture, where industrial byproducts are recontextualized into functional and spatial elements.
The ISSEY MIYAKE collaboration with Ensamble Studio introduces a complementary methodological approach grounded in material research and construction logic. Known for working directly with raw matter, the studio applies a restrained and process-driven technique to the Paper Log, focusing on physical interaction and transformation. Their contribution emphasizes manual engagement with the material, allowing its inherent properties to guide the outcome while maintaining clarity in form and execution.
The exhibition unfolds through two parallel series titled Shell and Core, distributed throughout the Milan store environment. Shell, developed by Ensamble Studio, consists of sculptural paper objects formed by peeling layers from the logs and shaping them into suspended or encased compositions. These elements are stabilized through chemical treatments that preserve every fold and crease, effectively capturing transient states of the material. Core, produced by the in-house team at MIYAKE DESIGN STUDIO, presents functional prototypes including stools, chairs, and tables, each exploring different structural and surface conditions.
A documentary component accompanies the installation, documenting the dialogue between designers and the evolution of the Paper Log project. This narrative reinforces the central premise shared by both collaborators: that process is the primary driver of innovation. Through iterative experimentation and direct material engagement, the ISSEY MIYAKE installation Milan positions design as an ongoing investigation, where production residues become the basis for new forms, functions, and spatial experiences.
All images credit: ISSEY MIYAKE
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